Two families

On Friday, after a long day of meetings with various officials and staff involved in the project, I finally got to meet two of the families for whom this project is being run.

Both families we visited lived in round traditional Mongolian Gers. Out in the countryside, in picture book Mongolia, these Gers would be just set-up in the open with the animals grazing nearby. But here in the town, where 80% of the population still live in Gers, each family Ger was surrounded by a 6ft high wooden fence. Many would still have a few animals in the small compound, an old rusting truck in one corner and a latrine in the other – and of course the large aggressive looking guard dog that had to be tied up when visitors entered.

The first family consisted of a mother and a father who worked as a security guard, their son who had an undiagnosed cognitive disability and a niece who must have been 6 years old. 

The boy was 15 years old but had a mental age of four and three years ago had dropped out of school. Fortunately he was able to continue some informal schooling from 11am till 3pm each day, and in this way was able to make slight progress with reading. He remained silent for the whole time we were visiting and apparently only his mother can understand what he is saying when he does speak. 

Four years ago it was discovered that he had cysts on his brain, so his parents sold all of their livestock so they could afford to take him to Russia for an operation. Unfortunately the operation was not a success but now they cannot afford to have further surgery. He also suffers from epilepsy, for which the government does provide free tablets. But they are not the particular type of tablet he needs and actually makes it worse for him. The tablets that he needs – costing £160 per year – have to be taken three times a day, but because of the cost his parents can only afford for him to take 1-2 tablets a day. 

The mother has to stay at home to care for him, and can only go out when she can find someone to look after him. She explained that she would like to be able to ask her son to go on errands to the market but she is worried what the community will say or do to him. 

When I asked her if and how the ADRA project was helping her situation, she said there were two main ways other than providing information on disabilities and what services they are eligible for. Firstly, she has discovered, through the project, that there are women and families in her neighbourhood who are in very similar situations. The project has brought these parents together and allows them to share what they are going through and mutually support each other. If it weren’t for the project then she would have remained stuck in the thinking that she was going through this alone. The other way that the project has provided support has been through a vocational training course that she was able to attend. She has been able to learn a new skill and now makes work-gloves that she is able to sell to road sweeper to supplement their income. 

Though she didn’t say so, it was clear that this also gave her a purpose and hope in life, something that is so important when faced with the challenges her family face. And of what hope for her son? Despite his learning difficulties with reading and writing, his drawing and wood work skills were excellent and his mother is already talking about him working in a carpenters shop to create decorative furniture.

When we reached the second family’s compound we were met by a girl of about seven year struggling to control an extremely large and aggressive dog. As I didn’t speak any Mongolian there was no point in being involved with the conversation so I waited at a distance! 

She explained her mother had just gone to fetch water and pointed to a speck in the distance trudging across the frozen river. We decided to wait and the driver took the opportunity to get out a hammer and proceed to knock large chunks of ice off the underside of the car. After about a twenty-minute wait, the mother finally returned with a yoke across her shoulders carrying a pair of buckets full of water. We followed her in, keeping an eye out for the large dog who had thankfully by then been tied up. 

This second family seemed to face the same challenges as the first although the woman was left to face them alone as her husband was living in Ulaanbaatar. I couldn’t work out whether this was because he had left her or because he had found work there and was sending money back, but either way she was left to look after four children, the youngest of which was a 2 year old boy with a severe disability. 

As the woman told us her story, and I listened in as it was translated, she suddenly started crying and sobbing loudly with despair and worry for her son. A year ago the family had been able to save enough money, or rather sell off all their livestock in order to take their son to Ulaanbaatar to have an operation. Whilst the operation in itself was free, the cost of getting there and back was £250 for each of them with additional costs of somewhere to stay when they got there. Unfortunately the operation was not a success and the woman was explaining how they could not afford another operation. 

I queried this with my translator as I had thought the operations were free of charge. But it turned out that whilst this was the case, if you wanted a better job being done you had to pay the surgeon. The family had been unable to afford this and so they believed the reason why it failed was because they could not afford the surgeon’s ‘fee’. Apparently this was common practice, so for families like this who were unable to pay, they ran the lottery of second-rate treatment. 

We’ll never know whether, if the family had paid for the operation, it would have been a success or not. But the mother obviously believed that it had not been a success because she was unable to afford to pay – and that in itself is not easy to live with.

Back to the city

Waiting at the airport earlier today for our return flight to Ulaanbaatar, I watched as a small boy of about five years shared his chocolate bar with another who had just happened to walk over to him. I expressed my surprise at this to Zula who I was waiting with and she explained how it was very normal to do this - children share sweets and food all the time. When she asked whether this was the same for children in the UK I felt a bit bad explaining that I didn't think so - if anything it was the opposite!

There was a bit of a wait before our flight so we all went to get a drink in the little cafe just inside the airport. It's funny how whenever you are abroad and the topic turns to the British royal family, because you are from the UK you turn into the world's foremost commentator on the upcoming royal wedding. As I sat there with Tunga, Zula and the two project staff from Zavkhan, answering a whole interviews worth of questions on Kate and Wills, the Queen, Prince Charles... and of course Diana, I suddenly realised these people think I know what I'm talking about!

Yesterday, there was low-level cloud and it had snowed for most of the day. It was so bad that the Mongolian Minister of Defence had to postpone his planned visit to Zavkhan and only arrived this morning as we were making our way out to the airport. We had to pull off the road as his long convoy raced past into town, a day late. But we had beautiful weather for our flight - just like when arriving so it made for another very scenic flight.

Out of the thirty people on my flight, several in traditional brightly coloured Mongolian dress, I must have been the only one who did not speak Mongolian. But the flight announcements were made in both Mongolian and English - I wonder whether that was for my benefit or is it just standard procedure? As we landed I hoped that the translated announcements were not a word-for-word literal translation because the the air stewardess translated into English, "Please be careful when opening the overhead lockers, the contents will fall out." Just in case, I kept a watchful eye as they were opened!

So tomorrow is Sunday and it's a day off. I was planning to go skiing but the person who was going to take me phoned me yesterday to explain that she was having to fly home urgently. So no Mongolian skiing this time. But after a long lay in bed (at least thats what I'm planning) I'm sure I'll think of something.

Off to Zavkhan

It’s amazing how many of the places where people face the most hardship, poverty and injustice also happen to be the most beautiful. Landing at the airport and driving the snowy road into Zavkhan in an old khaki-coloured Russian jeep it looked like it could have been the Swiss Alps or the Scottish Highlands in winter on a bright blue-sky day. If Zavkhan wasn’t quite so remote and difficult to reach you would have thousands of tourists paying big money to holiday here and yet the reality is that the only people in this far corner of the world make on average £150 per month, are fortunate if they have a job and only have minimal access to many of the services that we take for granted.

I’m out in Zavkhan to visit some of the activities that the project I’m working on is doing. ADRA is working with the local government, schools and doctors as well as a local organisation that supports parents of disabled children, to ensure that children with cognitive disabilities such as autism, downs syndrome and cerebral palsy are not ostracized by society but given the same rights and access to education and health care as every other child.

The international airport in Ulaanbaatar is not going to win any awards for customer satisfaction and it is probably fair to call basic. But checking into the domestic terminal takes it to another level, down. We checked our bags in at the desk of Eznis Airways who we were to be travelling with today. Not that we had much choice –it was explained to me that they pretty much have the monopoly when it comes to flying around Mongolia after their competitors had their license rescinded for too many accidents. When asked whether Eznis Airways had had many accidents, all I got in reply was a nervous laugh. I decided not to ask further questions! The two hour flight was however uneventful, although I did have to smile when the captain announced, “Ladies and Gentlemen, we have experienced some turbulence but it is quieter now so no need to feel frightened.” Should I have felt frightened!?

Landing at Zavkhan airport in the small 36 seater aircraft was spectacular, surrounded by mountains and a covering of snow everywhere I tried to work out whether under the snow the runway was paved or not but it was not clear. As we walked across into the warmth of the terminal building I watched as our bags were unloaded and placed on a trailer pulled by an old grey Russian minibus. The strong Russian influence is not surprising as Zavkhan sits on the larger neighbour’s southern border.

After being dropped off at our hotel I had an hour or so before dinner so decided to go out for a wander around town and take some photos. The sun was starting to go down but it was still very bright so the scenery looked incredible. I was planning to be out a bit longer but after 45mins I decided to head back as I was starting to lose feeling in my ears. Next time I go for a wander I’ll take my hat!

The room I’m staying in is fairly basic, as to be expected. The bathroom has a shower with shower tray but no cubicle – I’m often accused of somehow getting water across the bathroom floor at home but I’m sure that’s going to be nothing compared to this bathroom when I finish! The other strange feature of my room is the TV. It’s in one corner of the room and the only power socket is three metres across in the opposite corner. The power lead is only one metre.

Richfield Hotel

I might not be staying in the most fashionable hotel in town but I'm getting quite fond of it.

It's not perfect - the phone in my room which allows me to make free international calls does not always work. Extremely frustrating when it crashes half way through a chat with my wife who is 4,500 miles and 8 days away and it wont start working again! I can't stay in the shower too long otherwise it floods the bathroom floor. Upon arrival in my jet-lagged daze I didn't realise the shower tray was over-flowing and the bathroom floor gradually filling up. Didn't realise it was a great problem till 2 hours later when I got a call from reception, "Sir, is your bathroom ok?" Hmmm...

But every time I return to the hotel the receptionist is waiting behind the desk holding out my room key for me and both receptionists and the security guard greet me warmly. Now this might just be because there are not too many guests currently staying or because I look slightly different to everyone else but whatever it is, it certainly makes you feel welcome!


It's funny what you find interesting when in a foreign country. Normal every day sights become exciting new experiences and you see things slightly differently from those who call this home. The hotel I'm staying in is surrounded by large soviet-style housing blocks past which I walk on the way back and forth to the office. Now these are definitely not the most interesting things to see in Mongolia but for some reason they caught my interest and I stopped to take some photos. Whilst doing this earlier today, one of the staff from the ADRA office came up behind me laughing and exclaiming, "Why are you taking pictures of these buildings!?" She went on to explain they are just normal and not interesting to photograph. Feeling more than a little stupid and without wanting to sound like some geeky building spotter I tried explaining that they were in fact not that normal to someone from the UK but I don't think I convinced her. She walked with me down the road for a bit but I waited till she jumped on her bus before getting my camera out again!

The past few days have been spent in the main ADRA office here in Ulaanbaatar - it's been a good and productive few days but it's tomorrow that I'm really looking forward to. Two of the project staff and I will be catching a flight out to Zavkhan in the West of the country. Located on the border with Russia, the provincial capital of Uliastai is surrounded by mountains and is one of the most remote towns in Mongolia. Although we'll only be there till Saturday visiting the project and those involved, it should be a great experience with all the snow and cold weather! I have no idea where we will be staying but if my previous field trip in Mongolia is anything to go by then I'm preparing for something basic!

Slightly under dressed

Never have I been more grateful to see a Scotsman in my life.

After arriving out here yesterday I suddenly find myself invited along with about 20 others to a meeting with the EU ambassador for China and Mongolia. The Ambassador was due to meet the Mongolian President and Prime Minister tomorrow and wanted to first speak with a range of people from different organisations involved in development to hear first hand some of the issues affecting development in Mongolia. It was going to be a buffet and then informal discussion around the table. I'd been advised to dress smart but I'd not been expecting to be invited to this sort of meeting so I didn't have a suit or even a tie to wear. I thought I looked pretty presentable in smart trousers, shirt and jumper but had a feeling everyone else would be in a suit and tie - I wasn't wrong!

As I started to mingle and make small-talk as one should at these sort of functions I felt distinctly under-dressed alongside the head of the World Bank in Mongolia and the UN co-ordinator in Mongolia. Everyone was extremely smartly dressed and then there was me.  But then he entered the room, a gentlemen in full Scottish dress - kilt and sporran. I now officially love the Scots - this guy had clearly not read the dress code!

You know that feeling at the back of your mind when you pack to go away and you are sure you've forgotten something but can't quite place a finger on it? Well, hopefully this time it was just the tie!

Back to Mongolia

I'm back out in Mongolia again, five months since I was last here. The project that we have out here has reached the end of its first year and it's time to take stock, review progress and plan for the second year.

After flying via South Korea last time I'd decided to take a more direct route that would cut around 10 hours off the trip out here: London - Moscow - Ulaanbaatar. It was time to try Aeroflot - the airline that I'd grown up hearing of people avoiding at all costs and stories that could put you off flying for life. Maybe it was just the way people recounted experiences of Aeroflot but you got the impression that if you had the chance to fly again then it had been a good flight! But the Russian airline seems to have come on a long way since those stories of the 1980's and 1990's.... though perhaps they still have some progress to make. The distinct lack of inflight entertainment was noticeable - not even a communal TV screen showing a silent movie of Mr Bean to help pass the hours. But I'd come prepared and of course this was a work trip so I had plenty of time to read up on some papers. The food was enough to fill the hole - though maybe a little more variety would be nice. Lunch and dinner were the same and the breakfast consisted of one Nature Valley Crunch Granola Bar. Normally where you would get a bread roll with your meal, Aeroflot served half a miniature slice of bread wrapped in plastic. But I don't want to sound like I'm complaining - Aeroflot is not as bad as people make out. It's just probably firmly firmly in the 'no-frills airline' category. Having said all that, turbulence feels a lot different on an Aeroflot flight!!

The descent over Mongolia was beautiful - lots of snow covered scenery as the sun was starting to rise. I was landing at about 7am although with my body clock still on UK time it felt like 11pm after a long day of travelling and I was ready for bed. The captain announced that the temperature on the ground was 22 degrees below zero - walking out of the terminal building you certainly felt every one of those degrees below. But fortunately the car warmed up soon and I was being told that the temperatures not too much of a problem as long as you don't spend too much time outside.

Waiting at the airport

So we are now at the airport waiting for our flight to Seoul for a few days holiday before flying home on Sunday. I don't think I've been through such thorough airport security before - not sure why it's so tight here as I can't quite see it being a high risk airport. Once we'd got through security where I thought for a second they were going to ask me to take the shirt off my back, I got to stand in front of the most suspicious passport control person. Did they really need to ask what my name is when it says my full name on my passport!? I was not amused.

Reflecting on this trip as my final meetings finished earlier today I will look back on it as a successful and enjoyable visit. After taking on responsibility for the project in the summer I’d been working with a limited understanding of it – based on the documents I’d read and the second hand reports I’d heard. Yes, I felt I had an adequate enough understanding of what the project was doing and what it was trying to achieve. Yes, I felt I was able to add value to the project and support the team out in Mongolia. But after being out here and experiencing it first hand I now have a much greater understanding of the issues, the challenges, and what's going well. But most of all is the benefit of meeting the staff who are working on the project and those parents and children with cognitive disabilities that they are striving to assist. There is no doubt in my mind that this project is going to be a success.

After my final meeting we got to "do some tourism" and hired a driver to take us out to the largest statue I have ever seen. America has its presidents on Mount Rushmore, St Petersburg has Lenin and Rio has Jesus Christ. But these pale into insignificance alongside what Mongolia has. Just over an hours drive outside the capital stands a massive statue of the legendary horseman, Chinggis Khaan who conquered over half of the known world in the 13th Century, sitting upon an equally impressive horse. The statue stands at almost 50 metres tall and is covered in shiny steel that glistens when the sun shines. We went inside the statue where you can take a lift up and then walk out on the horse's neck, up to his head which acts as a viewing platform where you can stand and survey the steppes for miles around.

It seems that since the fall of communism Mongolians have found their identity in Chinggis Khaan. You can land at Chinggis Khaan International Airport, study at Chinggis Khaan University and stay at Chinggis Khaan Hotel. In the souvenir shops he comes in every form imaginable. With a reputation in some parts of being a bloodthirsty warrior it's probably just the identity Mongolia needs as it sits squashed between the giants of China and Russia.

So it's off to Seoul for a few days now. First time in the city so we'll see what it has in store. Hopefully we wont have any problems when we check into our hotel at around four in the morning. Maybe I can catch a couple of hours sleep on the flight.