Thursday 17 March 2011

Off to Zavkhan

It’s amazing how many of the places where people face the most hardship, poverty and injustice also happen to be the most beautiful. Landing at the airport and driving the snowy road into Zavkhan in an old khaki-coloured Russian jeep it looked like it could have been the Swiss Alps or the Scottish Highlands in winter on a bright blue-sky day. If Zavkhan wasn’t quite so remote and difficult to reach you would have thousands of tourists paying big money to holiday here and yet the reality is that the only people in this far corner of the world make on average £150 per month, are fortunate if they have a job and only have minimal access to many of the services that we take for granted.
I’m out in Zavkhan to visit some of the activities that the project I’m working on is doing. ADRA is working with the local government, schools and doctors as well as a local organisation that supports parents of disabled children, to ensure that children with cognitive disabilities such as autism, downs syndrome and cerebral palsy are not ostracized by society but given the same rights and access to education and health care as every other child.
The international airport in Ulaanbaatar is not going to win any awards for customer satisfaction and it is probably fair to call basic. But checking into the domestic terminal takes it to another level, down. We checked our bags in at the desk of Eznis Airways who we were to be travelling with today. Not that we had much choice –it was explained to me that they pretty much have the monopoly when it comes to flying around Mongolia after their competitors had their license rescinded for too many accidents. When asked whether Eznis Airways had had many accidents, all I got in reply was a nervous laugh. I decided not to ask further questions! The two hour flight was however uneventful, although I did have to smile when the captain announced, “Ladies and Gentlemen, we have experienced some turbulence but it is quieter now so no need to feel frightened.” Should I have felt frightened!?
Landing at Zavkhan airport in the small 36 seater aircraft was spectacular, surrounded by mountains and a covering of snow everywhere I tried to work out whether under the snow the runway was paved or not but it was not clear. As we walked across into the warmth of the terminal building I watched as our bags were unloaded and placed on a trailer pulled by an old grey Russian minibus. The strong Russian influence is not surprising as Zavkhan sits on the larger neighbour’s southern border.
After being dropped off at our hotel I had an hour or so before dinner so decided to go out for a wander around town and take some photos. The sun was starting to go down but it was still very bright so the scenery looked incredible. I was planning to be out a bit longer but after 45mins I decided to head back as I was starting to lose feeling in my ears. Next time I go for a wander I’ll take my hat!
The room I’m staying in is fairly basic, as to be expected. The bathroom has a shower with shower tray but no cubicle – I’m often accused of somehow getting water across the bathroom floor at home but I’m sure that’s going to be nothing compared to this bathroom when I finish! The other strange feature of my room is the TV. It’s in one corner of the room and the only power socket is three metres across in the opposite corner. The power lead is only one metre.


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